I made the Proper Attire Skirt this past week as part of the Fall Wardrobe e-course I’m taking from Deborah Moebes. It is a pattern by Anna Maria Horner and includes sizes XS to 4XL. The only measurements that the pattern envelope lists are finished dimensions and so you have to judge the size to make based on that.
I did make a muslin of the pattern to check for sizing. Luckily I did not have to make many adjustments to the size that I chose.
There was some fullness in the hips, just below the yoke, that I flattened out on the pattern pieces and I ended up adding 3 inches to the length.
The fabric I used was a bottom weight 100% cotton that was 60″ wide. It wasn’t quite as heavy as a twill, but was much heavier than a quilting weight cotton. I bought it at Hancock Fabrics where I never would have expected to find anything I liked. (I went there because their McCalls patterns were on sale and our last garment for this e-course is a McCall’s dress.) I have to admit that this fabric was a dream to sew with.
I used packaged piping and did not insert it in all of the areas that the pattern suggested. (Putting a stripe right across my belly did not seem very appealing to me). The skirt is completely lined and has an invisible zipper in the back.
Alterations I made to this pattern:
I took the curve out of the side seams below the yoke, lengthened the skirt by 3 inches and excluded the piping across the front yoke.
What I like about this pattern:
The finished skirt feels like a very well made and tailored garment.
What I don’t like:
The pleat does not hold it’s shape very well when the skirt is worn. A good friend who has done a lot of garment sewing suggested I edge stitch it. This has helped a great deal but it’s not perfect.
Would I make it again?
No. I think that I will wear this one quite a bit, but I don’t feel as though I like it enough to make another.
8 responses to “Proper Attire Skirt by Anna Maria Horner”
Nice job! I agree about not wanting piping across the mid-section!
Looks great on you when standing. Did you feel as if the pleat wasn’t deep enough to hold its shape? The muslin pattern looks exceptional – maybe a similar pattern with a solid fabric would be great? I’m in awe of your learning curve. Great job.
Thanks Debbie. I don’t know what to think about the problem with the pleat. It may be a problem with the pattern design and the depth of the pleat. It probably doesn’t help that the pleat originates at about the height of your groin instead of from the waist. Although this definitely gives you some nice walking and sitting room compared to a straight skirt. So – lots of pros and cons! I have seen pictures of the skirt made up in a solid fabric and they do look nice.
This turned out so well! How did you feel about actual piping vs the bias tape? Did the ridge of the piping help with lining things up as you had thought?
I do think that it is much easier to apply corded piping into the seam than a flat piece of bias tape – meaning that it’s easier to get an even amount of it showing. Pulling the cord out would have been very easy too. I ended up pulling the cord out at each end just enough to remove that bulk from the seam allowance. I liked the rounded look of the piping once I applied it and decided to leave it that way. But getting that bulk out of my seam intersections was definitely helpful!
Great job! Thank you for sharing your thoughts on the pattern and the changes you made. You’re making me want to try garment sewing!
Garment sewing is a lot of fun! Especially if you learn to make things fit. The biggest obstacle is getting over what size the pattern tells you to make after taking your measurements! This is not “in the store” sizing.
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