Tag Archives: Fall wardrobe e-course

Passport Jacket by Lisette

Passport Jacket

Passport Jacket and my Proper Attire Skirt

I’ve been working on this jacket for the past 3 weeks. It didn’t take that long to put together, it was just a matter of making all of the decisions about what adjustments to make regarding fit, length, number of buttons, etc… This is a Simplicity pattern by the designer Liesl Gibson of Oliver & S fame. Oliver & S in an independent pattern company that has the absolutely most adorable children’s patterns.

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Jacket & dress pattern

The jacket was part of the online garment sewing class I’ve been taking. Sadly the class ended this week and I have not started the 4th and last piece which is a dress. I am very pleased to have the jacket done, and just in time for cooler weather.

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I made the View C jacket which is unlined and has a straight collar. I added a little bit of embroidery to the collar and the pocket welts.

Embroidery to collar and pockets

Embroidery to collar and pockets

This was very simple to do on the individual pieces before they were attached to anything. I did interface them before doing the embroidery. I used a variegated thread in a black/gray color that doesn’t show up too strongly – taking this picture was a challenge. It was my intention to add this little detail but not have it be too “in your face”.

Embroidery on finished collar

Embroidery on finished collar

Alterations I made to the pattern:

I added 3″ to the length of the jacket and to the sleeves. This made my sleeves long instead of 3/4 length.

I put 3 buttons down the front instead of just the one at the top.

I made an adjustment to the center back to make it fit better on my shoulders.

What I like about the pattern:

It fits really nice and the black twill I chose to use is very soft and nice feeling.

It can be worn with a lot of different clothing.

The button loops are a lot easier to make than buttonholes!

What I don’t like about the pattern:

I’m not sure I love the asymmetry of the front closure or that the jacket is not lined. I’m pretty sure I will feel as though it has to be worn closed rather than open. What do you think?

Would I make this pattern again?

Maybe. If I did, I might try the ruffled collar, make it smaller and only put the top button loop on. I would also lower the pockets which are a bit high.

xxx

Pockets!

Pockets!

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Filed under Garment sewing, Pattern review, Uncategorized

Proper Attire Skirt by Anna Maria Horner

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My finished skirt

I made the Proper Attire Skirt this past week as part of the Fall Wardrobe e-course I’m taking from Deborah Moebes. It is a pattern by Anna Maria Horner and includes sizes XS to 4XL. The only measurements that the pattern envelope lists are finished dimensions and so you have to judge the size to make based on that.

Pattern envelope

Pattern envelope

I did make a muslin of the pattern to check for sizing. Luckily I did not have to make many adjustments to the size that I chose.

Muslin to check for fit.

Muslin to check for fit.

There was some fullness in the hips, just below the yoke, that I flattened out on the pattern pieces and I ended up adding 3 inches to the length.

Finished skirt and the Sorbetto top that I made last week.

Finished skirt and the Sorbetto top that I made last week.

The fabric I used was a bottom weight 100% cotton that was 60″ wide. It wasn’t quite as heavy as a twill, but was much heavier than a quilting weight cotton. I bought it at Hancock Fabrics where I never would have expected to find anything I liked. (I went there because their McCalls patterns were on sale and our last garment for this e-course is a McCall’s dress.) I have to admit that this fabric was a dream to sew with.

Knife pleat and piping detail

Knife pleat and piping detail

I used packaged piping and did not insert it in all of the areas that the pattern suggested. (Putting a stripe right across my belly did not seem very appealing to me). The skirt is completely lined and has an invisible zipper in the back.

Alterations I made to this pattern:

I took the curve out of the side seams below the yoke, lengthened the skirt by 3 inches and excluded the piping across the front yoke.

What I like about this pattern:

The finished skirt feels like a very well made and tailored garment.

What I don’t like:

The pleat does not hold it’s shape very well when the skirt is worn. A good friend who has done a lot of garment sewing suggested I edge stitch it. This has helped a great deal but it’s not perfect.

Would I make it again?

No. I think that I will wear this one quite a bit, but I don’t feel as though I like it enough to make another.

 

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Filed under Garment sewing, Uncategorized