Category Archives: Garment sewing

The Sorbetto top from Colette

Sorbetto top with added sleeves.

Sorbetto top with added sleeves.

I’m taking the Whipstitch Fall Garment Class online. Last week we learned a lot about preparing fabrics and patterns. This week we worked on the first project which is the Sorbetto top from Colette.

This pattern available as a free download

This pattern is available as a free download

You can download the pattern here which prints out on regular sized paper (16 pages!) and you cut and tape the pages together. It comes in sizes 0 – 18. It was suggested that we make a “wearable muslin”. This means sewing up the pattern in a fabric that you won’t be too disappointed if it doesn’t fit perfectly. This way you would make adjustments to the pattern to make it up in fabric you really love (but you would also be able to wear the not as perfect version in the other fabric).

Muslin top to check for fit

Muslin top to check for fit

I had plenty of muslin and not enough yardage of “other” fabric and so I just went ahead and made it in muslin – in 2 different sizes because I was between sizes. – isn’t that always the way? I also experimented with adding a sleeve. There were several sleeve versions that other sewing bloggers have kindly drafted that I was able to find online and print out.

Drafted sleeves for the Sorbetto top

Drafted sleeves for the Sorbetto top

Mena Trott from the Sew Weekly gives a roughly drafted sleeve pattern here (pictured in the middle above). Mena blogged about a week of Sorbetto tops that she sewed. She made a different version each day for a week. You can find  links to them at the bottom of this post of hers.

The Sleeve Pattern on the bottom is a version that Claire from Sew, Incidentally made up as a pdf from Mena’s version. Both were way too small for my size blouse so I lengthened both at the ends and in the middle to get a pattern that would fit.

I did not make any changes to the armhole of the blouse and sewed the sleeve in with a 1/4″ seam allowance as this is what was called for if you bound it with bias tape.

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I added 2 inches to the length of the top

The Sorbetto top is a very basic pattern. There is a front and a back, both cut out on the fold. The pleat detail in the middle of the front is very simple to make. There are bust darts on the front and the directions give you very good advice about sewing those. The neck and armholes (if you don’t add sleeves) are finished with bias tape – either cut from the same or contrasting fabric or purchased. The bias tape is sewn to the inside and then flipped to the outside such that it shows. It adds a nice finishing detail.  The hem is simply folded over twice and stitched.  There are no buttons or zipper – must be pulled on and off.

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Sheer fabric

I made my version from 100% cotton black dotted swiss fabric which I purchased at G. St. Fabrics. This is one of those fabrics that is very sheer looking by itself but not when you’re wearing it.

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Alterations I made to this pattern:

Added sleeves, added 2 inches in length and made a very slight adjustment to the neckline because it felt too wide.

What I like about this pattern:

Very simple to make and also simple to change up. Bias neckline could be contrasting fabric. Buttons or interesting trim could be sewn to the front pleat. Shirt is very comfortable to wear.

What I don’t like:

Boxy shape. Neckline still feels a bit wide.

Would I make it again?

Probably yes, but I don’t feel as though I want to make another right away (which means I’m not 100% in love with it)!

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Online garment making class.

I’ve been really wanting to do some garment sewing. There have been a number of friends lately that have sewn up the cutest summer tops and dresses. My past attempts to sew for myself have not been terrific and it’s pretty disappointing to spend both the time and money to sew something and not have it fit correctly. A month or so ago I found this class by Deborah Moebes on sewing a 4 piece wardrobe and decided to sign up.

fall-wardrobe-2012

 

Deborah teaches sewing classes both online (at http://www.whipstichfabrics.com) and in person at the Whipstitch Lounge in Atlanta. She also has a class on Craftsy called Design and Sew an A-Line Skirt.

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The wardrobe e-course started today and is still open for enrollment through next Sunday (register by 8/11/2013). The garments we will be working on include:

1. The Sorbetto top from Collette (a French pattern maker) which is a free download.

2. A skirt pattern by Anna Maria Horner which has 2 different versions.

Proper Attire Skirt Pattern

Proper Attire Skirt Pattern

3. A lined princess seamed dress pattern from McCalls

McCalls 6741

McCalls 6741

4. The Passport Jacket which was designed by Liesl Gibson of Oliver & S (known for their wonderful children’s patterns) which has two collar versions – either ruffled or peter pan.

Simplicity 2209

Simplicity 2209

Deborah picked these 4 patterns because she believes they will fit and look good on all body types. Here’s hoping!

We have started to introduce ourselves to the class in an online forum and some of the other participants have taken an e-course from Deborah in the past (sewing with knits, sewing for children, etc.) I think this is the highest recommendation. Obviously these ladies had a good experience and are back for more. I have also learned that, Heather, one of my DC Modern Quilt Guild friends is enrolled so that will make it even more fun for me as well.

Wish me luck! (I may need it).

 

 

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Filed under Garment sewing